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I am planning on planting corn for the first time ever and want to go no-till which I hear is the cheapest. I really have no clue what kind of planter to buy and I would want it to be able to plant beans too. I have never done this before so any help on what kind of planter I would need and methods I would need to use would be great! I plan on planting on 30 inch rows. Let me know what works on your operation I am open to any ideas!

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we have a very nice set-up...we have a JD 1770NT CCS 16R30...we put liquid fert 2"x2" from the furrow with a single disk, but we are plumbed to put fert directly into the furrow as well...we went with dawn trash whippers which is the most important part, we love them but guys around our area also like the trash whippers from yettter...we also pull a 1600 gal yetter all-steer tank behind the planter...just make sure u get those trash whippers in the ground to make the furrow black to heat the soil up in that spot where the seedbed is, but u do not want to make "mounds" on either side of the furrow either...that should give u a start...any questions ask away...
Most in our area of SW Ohio use 15" interplants on beans. The bean rows pull up and u can plany 30" corn. JD 1790, 1780 or Kinze 3600, 3650 are common. You are going to need liquid fert on no till corn. If you want to do corn on corn you'll need the row cleaners. We no till into bean stubble without the cleaners no problem. I orderd some 20 waive blades to help slice through corn stubble when doing beans. I had 13 waive on last year and they did a lot of hair pinning in damp conditions.
i think your always gonna have that (hair pinning) especially with the stalks being tougher. if you got a kinzy and you get them covered up and not to deep they will come up . throw a handfull of beans in the driveway and if they get rain they will come up so i wouldnt worry to much aabout the pinched stalks.
Selecting a corn and bean planter for no-till applications is much more challenging then one would expect. John Deere, Kinze and White all make planters that do a good job of singulating seed and spacing it properly. Finding a dealer that will support you and your planter is our deciding factor. You are gonna have questions and if they cant help you, its gonna be a difficult season. For no-till work, you have to have row cleaners, they move the residue to help warm the soil and also help keep a smooth serface for the unit to run on. Typically no-till struggles with cold soils, this is where pop-up fertilzer can help. Get it in the furrow but make sure you keep it off the seed. The cold and wet soil also makes a spiked closing wheel an attractive option, it helps break clods, this helps get good seed to soil contact. Soybeans in 30 in rows will yield comparibly with other spacing, at least in our area, but all the above things apply to soybeans as well. While no-till is by far the cheapest way to go, there are alot of challenges with the system. You only get one chance for a good stand, make sure you buy a large enough planter so that you do not have to hurry. 5mph is plenty when planting, faster then that and seed spacing starts to go downhill. Ok, wow, that turned into alot, good luck with your new adventure.
Joel, its like we are from the same area or something. Oh wait...Do you have spiked closing wheels on ur planter, i've seen guys around our area just have one of the closing wheels spiked, just wondering ur thoughts.
We haven't put the spiked closing wheels on the planter yet. We have ordered a colter for the front of the row unit from Dawn for this year. Dawn is giving us a few to put on because they are so confident that we will like them enough to order them for the rest of the planter next year, so, we'll see.
let me know what u think...i'm really happy with the trash whippers and other features of the planter...the monitor and monitoring system not so much tho...
If you are looking at planting in muddy conditions I would recommend spiked closing wheels that have curved tines. Spiked tines work just fine but we have one planter with just plain spiked and the other with curved tines and it is evident around sloughs which planter was used (much better stand). Also look at the tire placement between the rows; if the planter bar sits too low the mud will get wedged in the bar and you will spend hours digging it out. We use the Bauer bar on our JD instead of the JD bar. One last thought... a recently released study from NDSU states that an optimum rate (no matter your soil tests) for starter fert is 8-10 gallons.
Would you get the Martin spading closing wheel or the Dawn Curvetine XR? With all the snow we have received in Iowa I have a feeling this spring is going to be a fun one. On our no-till ground we want something that is going to get rid of the sidewall compaction, provide quicker emergence, and warm the seedbed.
I honestly don't know which one that I would purchase at this point. I will say that the brand new planter that I looked at in the shop at JD last week was being set up with the Dawn Curvetines.
Guys thanks for all the help! IM learning alot. ok im kinda going to tell you more about my idea for corn so you can maybe help me more. I am plannin on planting around 35 acres total in corn to use for cattle feed to help offset my corn gluten prices. the land i want to plant is relatively flat with sandy loam soil that we have here in alabama. the fields are used as pasture now but are disked and broadcast with wheat and ryegrass each fall for winter grazing and will not be very compacted by time for planting. after the cows graze to the ground for the last time in early spring i am planning on doing a burndown of all remaining vegitation with an application of roundup about 2 weeks prior to planting. Afterwards I want to no till plant corn in 30inch rows. My question is do i need to do any soil preparation with an implement before planting or just burndown, fertilize with 34-0-0 plus lime bc my phosphorous and potassium are good, then plant or do that? I had looked at no till drills but cant afford them, but could i just go out and buy a planter probly a 4 to 8 row and plant with a regular planter, or would having a planter with no till attachments make a big difference? It is hard for me online for example to tell a difference in a JD 7200 four row conventional and a JD 7200 no till. I need to know exactly what to look for on a planter to know what makes it a no till so i would know if that is the correct setup. really what would be the easiest and cheapest way to prepare and plant for corn? I dont want to rent equipment either, i would rather buy. as for the equipment i have that is avail for me to use for row crops i have a 3 bottom plow, a 10 foot disk harrow, a 10 foot spike tooth harrow, and a drag harrow as well if you think i would need to use any of these. I am not trying to make a living doing this just trying to lower my feed prices and experiment while learning so later on maybe get more in depth into row cropping. thanks!
the no till have whats called a conservation frame that is heavier . also stronger springs on your planting units for down pressure. and they usually have a heavy culter either rippled or wavey infront of the openers you dont need row cleaners and all that fancy crap if your planting into a heavy grazing area with little residue i have no tilled seedings and small grains with a normal grain drill if your working in soft soils do it just after a gentle rain .. for the amount of acreage your doing timing things right is more impotant than spending big bucks on equipment

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